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Supermarine Spitfire MkIX - The History
Supermarine Spitfire MkIX - The HistoryThroughout the early part of the war, Supermarine and Rolls ...

Messerschmitt Bf109G Special Offer
Messerschmitt Bf109G Special OfferSpecial OfferRead the full RCME review [download the attache...

Lavochkin La7 - Rapier of the Red Army
Lavochkin La7 - Rapier of the Red ArmyUp until recently the Red Air Force fighters have been large...

Mustang P51D - Cadillac of the Skies
Mustang P51D - Cadillac of the SkiesThe North American Aviation P-51 Mustang was a long-range si...

The Hawker Hurricane and its finest hour
The Hawker Hurricane and its finest hourArriving in front line service in 1937 the Hurricane was a n...

Warbird Replicas Scale 2.5 inch [64mm] Aluminium Spinner
Warbird Replicas Scale 2.5 inch [64mm] Aluminium SpinnerFinally a 2.5 inch [64mm] spinner to fit most WWII types, el...

Warbird Replicas Scale 3 inch [75mm] Aluminium Spinner
Warbird Replicas Scale 3 inch [75mm] Aluminium SpinnerFinally a 3 inch [75mm] spinner to fit most WWII types, elec...

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      The maiden flight

      Well the big day has finally arrived...all control systems have been treble of your latest masterpiece are on the Warbird Replicas website...youve run out of excuses, so what are you waiting for...get it up where it belongs!!

      So as long as your model has been constructed sensibly there is no reason to feel apprehensive at this stage, from our experience most incidents come from poor preparation.

      You might need some ballast to get the balance point in the correct position. The weight is easiest to place in the tank bay, but make sure it's going to stay there. Do not attempt to fly your aircraft with a rearward C of G, it may tolerant it to a point, but why tempt fate?

      We would really recommend making any test flights without the cowl, unless you have a well run in motor and have made a number of consistent static runs. Remember to add some temporary weight to compensate for the missing cowl. The advantage is that you can monitor the motor much easier, and there is no danger of overheating while you trim out the airframe.

      If a model gets in trouble on take off it will always flick left because of the way IC motors run. We recommend that you aim your take off just right of the eye of the wind and on the test flight, wind in 1/8" of right trim.

      Most warbirds possess powerful elevators, they must be treated with a little respect - generally bullying it will not be rewarded.

      Hold in full up elevator to keep the tail down. Then as she starts rolling ease off the up and allow her to gather speed. Once she is bowling along with her tail up, ease in a little up and allow her to climb out at a shallow angle. Speed is your safety margin during the take off so let her pick up as much as possible before 'unsticking'.

      Ignore all comments from the self proclaimed club expert, telling you that Warbirds are tricky to fly. Our kits are delightful fliers, and once trimmed, will fly very slowly, so there is no need to come in like an express train. Be gentle with her and she will pretty well fly herself.

      As a final note, if you have managed to add too much filler/glue/paint and your own additional strength (ie surplus weight). Don't panic. Sure, it may not fly quite as nice as it may have, if you had built it as we have designed it, but it does have a very sophisticated high lift wing which will tolerate a fair amount of extra weight.

      So take a deep breath, and enjoy the moment...get it up!!!!